A Bush(mills) in the hand.....

I recently returned from a trip to Northern Ireland. Growing up, as I did, during the 70's, Northern Ireland was a mythically dangerous place. If you'd told me then that one day I'd be drinking in pubs in Derry & Belfast, I'd give you the same answer I'd give you if today you invited me to grab a pint and go for a stroll in Fallujah.

Are you out of your mind?

But today, Northern Ireland bears no resemblance to the place I remember hearing about - where bombings, the IRA and Sinn Féin were daily news items. No, this was a very different place. Derry was an interesting, if quiet, walled city, with obvious reverence for the past. Belfast could be a major city in any country - the streets filled with tourists and locals, the bars and restaurants packed, and the "troubles" seeming to be as foreign to the citizens of Belfast as the Vietnam war is to any American under the age of 40.

I enjoyed my tourist time there - visiting the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce castle and enjoying the natural beauty of the Antrim coast. But of course, the real reason I was in Northern Ireland was to visit Bushmill's Distillery.

HISTORY

Though the area around Bushmill's lays claim to being licensed to distill since 1608 (when King James I granted a license to Sir Thomas Philips), the Bushmill's distillery didn't become formally registered until 1784. In 1885 the original Bushmill's distillery was destroyed in a fire - and didn't begin re-distilling until reconstruction was complete in 1887.

The early 20th century brought major problems to the Irish whiskey industry - U.S. prohibition; the Irish War of Independence, and the Irish Civil war in particular - which closed the vast majority of the Irish distilleries. Bushmill's however, survived this dark time - through luck, determination and by adherence to making something different - a single malt whiskey - while most Irish distilleries stuck with the the traditional Irish Pot Still style.

But of course, it wasn't as easy as just making something different - in addition to the aforementioned fire, Bushmill's has endured seven owners, the ups and downs of the spirit market, Irish whiskey falling out of fashion, and a bankruptcy.

In 1972, at the height of the "Irish Troubles", Bushmill's was acquired by Irish Distillers Limited, which was in turn acquired by Pernod Ricard in 1987. It was only recently (August 2005) that as part of the industry-altering acquisition of Allied Domecq by Pernod- Ricard in 2005, Diageo stepped in and took Bushmill's off Pernod's hands for the tidy sum of €300 million.

This was a good move for Irish whiskey, as it put the 3 distilleries into 3 different organizations, and even better for Bushmill's - it is apparent to me that the brand is flourishing under the new ownership. Diageo is applying their infamous no-holds barred marketing juggernaut to the Bushmill's line - which unfortunately languished under the ownership of Irish Distillers, who instead chose to focus their marketing efforts on the Jameson brand.

PRODUCT

While most people associate Irish whiskies with being "light" (ie, bland) Bushmill's heavy use of sherry casks and using only malted barley in their malt mash bill ensures that even their blends are flavorful - while remaining distinctly Irish - triple distilled and unpeated, that is.

Bushmill's has a large capacity - producing around 3.5 million original liters of alcohol each year (this is the measurement of alcohol produced at the still). Though their ten mash tuns are large at 70,000 liters, their nine stills are relatively small - four wash stills (each with a capacity of 15,920 liters) and 5 low wine stills (each with a capacity of 10,456 liters).

I had the chance to meet with Colum Egan, Master Distiller, tour the distillery and join him for a tasting of the Bushmill's line.

Bushmill's has a number of readily available standard expressions - two blends and three single malts. But  they also have a 4th single malt which is only available for purchase at the distillery. All display the house style to varying degrees - a light and fruity (stones fruits - ie, peaches, apricots) yet spicy, flavor with distinct vanilla, malt and wood over and under-tones.

The Blends

Bushmill's Original
Though no age statement appears on the Bushmill's Original, Colum tells me that the blend includes grain whiskies between 3 and 5 years, while the malt is 5 years old. The blend is between 40-50% malt - the majority of which is aged in bourbon casks.

Notes: Fresh and light with juicy apricots and light honey and malt under-tones. Water brings out some nice buttered toast, and cut grass.

Black Bush
One of my personal favorite blends, Black Bush is a fantastic dram. Aged 7- 11 years, Black Bush is heavily malt - with 70% of the blend being malt whiskey - most of it aged in sherry casks. The grain component of Black Bush is unique to the Bushmill's line in that it is distilled in pot stills (normally, grain whiskey is produced in column stills).

Notes: Strong leather on the nose, along with barley in the field. Straightforward sherry, nicely balanced by the strong malt. Nice long chocolaty finish. A little water smooths it out a bit...making it even more enjoyable.

The Malts

Bushmill's 10 year old

Notes: Incredibly smooth, pointed vanilla and coconut that says "Bourbon Oak". Spices and fruit follow up quick that say "Sherry Wood". Fades quickly though - very pleasant, but not the most memorable. Water doesn't do a lot for it.

Bushmill's 16 year old
The 16 year old launched in 1996, is a malt that is roughly 50% bourbon aged and 50% sherry aged. After 16 years, the malt is vatted and then placed into tawny port pipes, where it will mature for an additional 6 - 9 months before being bottled.

Notes: Great fruit. Honey and malty; spicy and peppery. The port makes a showing at the end. This is some good stuff. The 6 years and port finish make the 10 year old something more memorable.

Bushmill's 21 year old
The 21 is also 50%/50% Bourbon/Sherry, but is matured for an additional two years in Madeira casks.

Notes: Everything has mellowed by now - and the Madeira finish brings something new - but not Madeira-ish to the table. Interesting and very likable.

Bushmill's 12 year old Distillery Reserve
Do I like this just because it is only available at the distillery? Naw, I like it because it's a big improvement on the 10 - starting to see this stuff on its way to becoming the 16 - and brings in the complexity that is missing in the 10. Go to the distillery and buy some.

I THINK YOU TWO WILL GET ALONG

Between you and me, for years I thought the Bushmill's bottle looked too austere and formal - in comparison to many other Irish whiskey bottles which say "Let's party". But like so many things, once you give it time to come out of it's shell, you'll see that Bushmill's isn't so stuffy - and also knows how to have a good time. And with more depth than many other Irish whiskies you'll find yourself drawn to Bushmill's - especially when you want more than just a party.

Go on, meet Bushmill's. I think you two have a lot in common.

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I should note that Bushmill's still receives the grain whiskey component for their blends from the Midleton distillery in Cork through an arrangement with former owners Irish Distillers. I have no indication when this arrangement might end - but I also have no indication that Bushmill's has any plans to produce their own grain whiskey - but I think this would be the logical next step.

Comments

[Ed H]

I picked up an Old Bushmills Whiskey crate and am trying to find out the age of the crate. Are they still used? If not, when did they stop using them for distribution? Any information would be appreciated. A very neat crate which has received many comments from friends. Thanks.