Best of: Screw (Cap) This (Part 1)

A recent email from a reader asking about whether it was a good idea to store his whisky on its side reminded me that we were due to revisit this series....

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Originally Posted April 21, 2006

Screw (Cap) This [Pt. 1]

Jody Cairns asks:

How about an article behind the usefulness (or lack thereof) of corks? Do they serve any practical purpose? Are they only a marketing gimmick? I suspect it's all about perception, but then you'd think why don't the bottlers of blends adopt using corks, too? Is there a marketing agreement between single-malts and blend bottlers to permit only single-malts the use of corks?
I look forward to reading any insight you can bring about the subject.

Ah, the age old question of the cork. Corks have a long history with Scotch - before the screw cap was invented, all bottles were sealed with cork. Plus, there's an undeniable, emotionally satisfying aspect to pulling out a cork - as opposed to screwing off a cap.

But don't whisky producers face some of the same issues faced by wine makers?

Jody Cairns asks:

How about an article behind the usefulness (or lack thereof) of corks? Do they serve any practical purpose? Are they only a marketing gimmick? I suspect it's all about perception, but then you'd think why don't the bottlers of blends adopt using corks, too? Is there a marketing agreement between single-malts and blend bottlers to permit only single-malts the use of corks?
I look forward to reading any insight you can bring about the subject.

Ah, the age old question of the cork. Corks have a long history with Scotch - before the screw cap was invented, all bottles were sealed with cork. Plus, there's an undeniable, emotionally satisfying aspect to pulling out a cork - as opposed to screwing off a cap.

But don't whisky producers face some of the same issues faced by wine makers?

What about TCA taint?
If you are not also a wine drinker, you may not be familiar with the concept of "cork taint" which is a very real bacterial issue affecting as much as 2-5% of bottled wines. A bottle of wine that has cork taint is generally referred to as being "corked."

The following explanation of cork taint in wine comes paraphrased from The Wine Steward:

All natural cork contains traces of a bacterial compound known as Trichloroanisole, or “TCA” for short. When it occurs at a certain level (literally just a few parts per trillion) it imparts a “taint” to the wine.

In the early stages of TCA spoilage, only those especially sensitive to the taint can detect it. Rather than an aroma or flavor, there is initially only a “dumbing” of the wine’s original fruit character; it is simply not all that it should be. With more time, the spoilage develops to something almost anyone can sense: A “wet newspaper” mustiness that has completely replaced the wine’s original aromas and flavors. This is not damage you can actually see; other structural flaws are to blame for leaky or brittle corks.

We might assume that cork taint also presents a problem for any whisky which uses a cork - but this is apparently not an issue that concerns some in the industry:

In 43 years of distilling, blending, coopering, cask warehousing, countless tastings with IWSC [International Wine & Spirit Competition] and ISC [International Spirits Challenge], and thousands of bottles sold, I have only ever found a handful of bottles that were corked.

Did you know that from the seventeenth century until the mid 1970s all maturing casks had cork bungs - it was only when racked warehouses were introduced that oak bungs were used to seal the casks.

So, if cork was a problem surely, over the course of 300 years, someone would have spotted the problem. Or could it simply be that the distillers and blenders of yester-year were not nearly as clever as today's “experts”?

The reason cork was used was to enable the cask to breath - which helped to stop the build-up of pressure within the cask. Such a build-up could cause leakage where a weak spot may have been in the cask.

Corked whisky is now the latest blog baby . How did we ever make it this far without such experts? Whats next? Plastic bottles ?

Sorry, I could go on but I need a strong dram from a bottle with a cork.
Jim McEwan

There are some dissenting opinions about this:

Whiskies can be corked (have "cork taint"), just like wine. This is a fact. I can show you examples.
John Glaser

Cork cause problems. TCA and dissolved cork are a reality if the liquid lies against the cork for any length of time.

We have 100 year old bottles of Cognac at Berry's but they have been standing all that time. No rest for great Spirits.
Ronnie Cox

Perhaps the cork allows the whisky to breathe?
Nope. In case you didn't know, whisky ceases to mature once removed from the cask - unlike wine which continues to mature and evolve (and eventually devolve), helped along by the oxidation effects of air that is allowed in through the cork:

The cork in a bottle of Scotch does not act as it does in wine and permit further breathing. The moment that the spirit is decanted from the cask and filled to glass the breathing and ageing process ceases.
Jimmy Robertson

As Jim McEwan stated above, cork bungs were used in casks at one time, and the purpose was to allow the cask to breathe. At Glenmorangie, they are still using them:

I think cork, as you suggest, does have a perception of quality rather than any actual benefit when used in bottling.  - we do however still use it for our cask bungs (although not exclusively anymore as it's very hard to get -so now only when refilling a cask already "soft" bunged ie 2nd fill) -  we believe it allows the cask to breath easier and reduces any pressure that may build up on warmer days.
Graham Eunson

Let's talk about Blends
To clarify things - there is no agreement between single malts and blended whiskies concerning corks. Glenfiddich 12 and Grant's use screw caps, while many of the higher end blends (JW Gold, JW Blue, Chivas Royal Salute) use corks.

Blended scotches used corks as well back in the day, but they were selling faster than single malts and being consumed faster than single malts - so when the much cheaper twist offs were invented in the early 1900's, they were adopted for blends.

It was thought that a cork provided better long term protection for a whisky, so the single malts kept them - since most consumers, even now, parcel it out. 

Most bars today will go through more Johnnie Walker Black Label in a week than most single malts in a year, so long term storage is not an issue with blends.
Marty Duffy

Economics plays its part
Screw tops are much cheaper to make - a fraction of the cost of corks. And since most blends require highly specific cost targets to meet the price points for different tiers - that equals no corks in the mass market blends.

Security, as well

These are parts of the world where fraudulent use and counterfeiting mean it is preferable to use bottles with a non refillable closure - this helps stop the bottle being refilled with cheaper whisky.
Neil Macdonald

So why not use screw caps on Single Malts - don't they face the same issues?

Corks have traditionally been used on Scotch whiskies and I guess the idea of moving away from them, like with wine, would be considered a down market move.    
Mark Reynier

Interesting question and it seems to be a covention that quality whiskies use corks - mainly because they are seen as a strong indicator of quality. Also there is a definite tactile pleasure when you hear the gentle "thwock" of a cork being drawn out of the bottle - something a screwcap just does not emulate.
Neil Macdonald

$30 + for a bottle of malt so most maketers/brands/companies believe that cork is king for this. Personally we use them in JMR bottles 'cause we love the popping sound they make when you open and close the bottle!
Dave Robertson

It's very straightforward in my view. It's all about another of our senses SOUND. Sound is an important part of the ritual. The wondeful pop each time - rather than the one time metallic "crack".
Ronnie Cox

John Glaser is passionate about cork - or actually, the need to move away from cork. Is John trying to cut costs? I doubt it, John is also quite passionate about using the finest woods to age his whisky, so I know cost isn't a factor in his decisions...

There is no doubt:  the Scotch whisky industry continues to use cork on super premium whiskies ONLY because of consumer perception.  The common consumer perception is that cork is superior closure suitable for better, more expensive products.

Why do we use cork?  It's a traditional and historically effective closure for bottles, especially wine bottles that require small amounts of oxidation over many years.

There is no economic and certainly no product quality-driven reason for Scotch whisky bottlers to use cork anymore.

Synthetic corks can work, but have two problems: 1) after repeated opening and closing, the silicon wears off and the corks get stuck; and 2) biodegradability.

The Scotch whisky industry should be moving away from cork, if they care about the quality of their products, just like winemakers around the world are increasingly moving away from cork.

Now, you'll be wondering why we (Compass Box) still use cork.  First, I'll say that our long term plan is to move to screw cap (unless a better option comes along).  Secondly, I should say I used synthetic cork when I first started the company, but was faced with the two issues above. 

So, why still use cork?  The economics of being a small company.  To move to screw cap, we would have to pay many tens of thousands of pounds to design and create molds for a custom screw cap, given the bottle we use.  We simply cannot afford that.  So, we will move to a screw cap or better alternative in the future, when we can afford it.

For a big company brand, the switch would be considered cheap and no big deal.  And here's the kicker:  screw caps (after amortising the cost of design and molds and bottling line change parts...no biggy for a big brand) are CHEAPER than corks!  (Assuming you haven't designed a screwcap out of marble or some such thing!). 

The problem for big brands, is what I stated at top: consumer perception.  They're scared.  And so far there is no super premium malt brand willing to take this chance.  We will, one day...

Marty Duffy concurs:

A screw top would, I believe, take some of the romance out of it, which is why they have stayed with it for so long in the first place. But the use of cork may change in the future.  Like wines, they are finding that screw tops may actually work better than cork - plus cork is getting rare & expensive.

I had so much good input, I've split this into a two-part story. Stay tuned for next week's installment when we talk to Ian Millar about Glenfiddich's plans for the future, as well as the Sales Manager from Amorim...a provider of corks to the Scotch industry...

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Thanks to Jimmy Robertson (Morrison-Bowmore), Jim McEwan & Mark Reynier (Bruichladdich), John Glaser (Compass Box), Marty Duffy (Diageo), Dave Robertson (JMR), Graham Eunson, (Glenmorangie), Ian Millar (Glenfiddich), Deborah Guimaraens (Amorim) and Neil Macdonald (Chivas Brothers) for their input.

Comments

[Steve]

I know this is a "best of", I'm not sure commenting is even useful, but I wasn't a reader when this thread was first posted.

From the sounds of it, sticking with cork does seem like it's a matter of consumer preference. But is that not a major concern for anyone selling anything? Cars with plastic interior are cheaper to make than cars with custom wood interiors, but high end cars continue to sell the more expensive of the two.

I see no compelling reason in these arguments to switch to a screw-cap when the drinking public finds it low-class. If the whisky isn't tainted (which seems to be the general consensus), and the cost of the cork is simply transferred into the cost of the bottle to the customer, why degrade your product in the eyes of the marketplace?

I wouldn't buy a Lexus with cloth seats, I wouldn't buy a fine whisky in a plastic bottle, and I wouldn't buy a high-quality diamond with a plastic setting. When you spend more for quality, you look forward to the little things. I'm sure BMW could make cheaper cars that don't have that pleasant "thunk" when you close the door, but they don't.

The fact of it is, people see a screw cap and they think low quality, just as they see a boxed wine and think the same.

Long live cork!

[Martin]

I think that the whisky industry absolutely needs to move to screw caps. While I agree that there is something to the sound of a cork, I would rather take a screw cap with all of the benefits it offers: it won't dry, break, or fall into my whisky, etc. Once all of the companies switch over, consumer perception won't be an issue.

Not only that, but maybe, just maybe they would pass on some of THEIR savings onto us, and single malts, which are already quite expensive would become more reasonably priced.

Plenty of bourbon makers uses screw caps and it is great.

[Dan]

Per bottle the piece cost difference between cork and screw cap is very little. It only really makes a difference in the bottom line of a big company.

I like Glenfiddich 12 Y.O. I drink it frequently. I also like Balvenie 12 Y.O. I would drink it even if it has a screwcap. Glenfiddich is bigger, has more money to spend and they create a whisky of good character. Where Balvenie is smaller, has less money and creates whisky of great character.

Is it because of the cork? I don't think so. Is it because they are smaller and can concentrate on quality. I believe that it is. Cork will not effect the quality of the product, that is well established. However, it will affect the romance of the product.

IMHO

[Kevin Erskine]

Hey Dan,
Balvenie & Glenfiddich are actually produced by the same company - William Grant & Sons.

They are produced at 2 separate distilleries - which sit on the same property. William Grant has their own bottling line, which bottles all of the Grant products.

I get your point; just wanted to make sure everyone was clear on this.

[John]

As long as screw caps provide a seal of equal or better quality to that of cork caps (in regards to oxygen permeability in particular), I don't see why a good looking screw cap shouldn't be used. Do that many customers buy their whisky based on packaging and slick bottle design that changing the cap will affect sales drastically? Especially when it comes to single malts, you would think that customers buy because of flavor, not perceived quality.

[Zak]

John, you would think customers buy for flavor and not perceived quality. But you're wrong, enthusiasts like you buy for real quality and flavor, the mass market purchases what's pretty. I am a college student and whenever I get into a scotch conversation, someone will bring up JW blue with the confidence that they invented whisky. i'll ask then whats good about it usually they'll say "look at it!", referring to the price tag packaging, etc.

Grey Goose was created for that same mass market, and yes it too has a cork. grey goose spawned a market for premium vodka by simply frosting the bottle and putting a cork on it. mass market doesn't care it's mae in a column still. mass market scotch drinkers don't care much either. it's a sad but unfortunate truth.

[Dan]

Kevin,

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I will be sure to visit them both when I am there in October. They are clearly different styles of whisky. I like them each at different times.

Coming from the wine industry I know a little about the screw cap controversy, at least in this realm. The initial investment in the equipment and bottle cost is what makes it cost prohibitive for small wineries. That doesn't mean that it is bad for wine, quite the opposite. It isn't very good for aging wine but for wine that will be consumed within a few years there really is no reason not to use them. Unfortunately there are a lot of snobs out there that think that wine with a screwcap is inferior to a wine with a cork. There are some inferior wines with corks that would change their minds if they did a blind tasting.

The reality of it is there is no reason for corks in whisky bottles except for the romance of the thunk when you pull it out each time you pour yourself a dram. Whisky doesn't age in the bottle it doesn't breath through the cork like wine does. OK so it does breathe a little bit due to changes in temperature. However, there is so little volume change that it would have very little affect on the headspace or the seal on the screwcap.

Moving to a screwcap will not change the price of the whisky. There really is not much of a cost savings per bottle. I know in our business the difference is less than a dollar. I can't imagine that it would be much more than that in the whisky biz. It would make the bottom line a lot more profitable.

[Peter]

I have to say, I'd still drink my A'bundah if it had a screw cap but as has been mentioned, it would lose some of the romance replacing that satisfying pop with a metal on glass grinding sound. I'll gladly pay an extra dollar for my scotch to have a cork. Of course, I'm no scotch connoisseur - I just enjoy drinking a nice single-malt dram in the evening.

[Aaron Williams]

I think the votes are in and hanging chads are not going to affect this poll. Keep the cork! Screw caps serve their purpose well, maybe even more superior to the cork when it comes to whisky but... as down-to-earth and anti-pretentious as I try to be, I just can't wrap my head around screw-capping my Dalmore 21. Eeesh, the thought makes my shudder.

[Andy]

I agree with the pro cork people. Part of drinking scotch at the end of the day is the ritual. I like how it is different than most liquors and I like the sound. Having said that, taste is the most important factor for me. Taste and value.

Andy