The Scotch Blog

A Bush(mills) in the hand.....

I recently returned from a trip to Northern Ireland. Growing up, as I did, during the 70's, Northern Ireland was a mythically dangerous place. If you'd told me then that one day I'd be drinking in pubs in Derry & Belfast, I'd give you the same answer I'd give you if today you invited me to grab a pint and go for a stroll in Fallujah.

Are you out of your mind?

But today, Northern Ireland bears no resemblance to the place I remember hearing about - where bombings, the IRA and Sinn Féin were daily news items. No, this was a very different place. Derry was an interesting, if quiet, walled city, with obvious reverence for the past. Belfast could be a major city in any country - the streets filled with tourists and locals, the bars and restaurants packed, and the "troubles" seeming to be as foreign to the citizens of Belfast as the Vietnam war is to any American under the age of 40.

I enjoyed my tourist time there - visiting the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce castle and enjoying the natural beauty of the Antrim coast. But of course, the real reason I was in Northern Ireland was to visit Bushmill's Distillery.

Cooley Distillers and Connemara mini-flasks

The first new Irish distillery in over 100 years, Cooley Distillery PLC was formed in 1987 - and their first Malt Whiskey was distilled in 1989 – but it wasn’t until 1991 that Cooley’s distilled a peated single malt. Yes, that's right. I said peated.

Cooley’s whiskies are all distilled at the Cooley distillery (named for the Cooley peninsula on which the distillery sits) and matured at the warehouses at Locke’s Distillery (also owned by Cooley Distillery PLC) in Kilbeggan - the oldest licensed distillery site in the world (1757) per Monday's story, Cooley plans to begin distilling  at Kilbeggan, next week. To this point, the distillery has only been used for warehousing and the Cooley cooperage. Cooley Distillery is not only independent, it’s the ONLY independent in Ireland AND the only Irish owned distillery.

Your mama is so old...

Here's something interesting...

As you may be aware, Bushmill's lays claim to being the world's oldest distillery. According to Bushmill's, the town of Bushmill's was awarded the first license to distill in 1608 by King James I - and boasts ties to whiskey production as far back as the 13th century.

But according to Jack Teeling, Old Kilbeggan Distillery is about to celebrate its 250th Anniversary, making it the oldest continuously licensed distillery in the world.

Bushmills can only claim that the area around Bushmills distillery and not the distillery itself, was granted a license to distill 400 years ago next year. Bushmills distillery was actually set up after Kilbeggan distillery - I think whiskey drinkers would be interested in this so they don't get caught up in the hype.

New Distillery on Islay

BREAKING NEWS!

Yep, It's finally official. Bruichladdich has announced plans to open a new distillery on Islay - The Port Charlotte distillery.

I expect this will be the home of Bruichladdich's peat monsters and that Bruichladdich distillery will return to the lighter style of whisky that one expects - but you never know with these guys.

I saw the plans for the new distillery back in September on my last trip to Islay, and promised Mark Reynier I wouldn't talk about it until it was announced.

Unless the plans have changed, it will be a very stylish looking building - with room for community events for the residents of Port Charlotte . The existing Loch Indaal distillery warehouses will continue to be used for maturation.

More info from Ron Steenvoorden's Islay Blog

Isle of Arran

At Whisky Live Paris I also had the opportunity to meet and talk with Euan Mitchell (Director of Sales) and Douglas Davidson (Managing Director) of Isle of Arran.

Euan Mitchell: The distillery opened in 1995 - the first middle cut of spirit was taken at 2:29pm on the  29th of June 1995, if you want to get specific. We celebrated the 10th anniversary last summer, but we delayed the launch of our 10 year old until spring of this year to ensure a good volume of stocks.

Islay's Farm Distillery

On my last visit to Islay, I managed to take a morning off from the work at the Bruichladdich Academy and run over to the west side of the island to visit Kilchoman. This was not my first visit to Kilchoman, but it was my first chance to sit down with Anthony Wills, managing director.

Kilchoman - keeping in the best traditions of the Gaelic language, isn't pronounced exactly like it is spelled; but this one is easier than some - simply ignore the superfluous "c" - with no particular stress on any syllable.

kill - ho - mun

The distillery grounds, still partially under construction (as of my visit), are very attractive. The main production equipment is housed in an original, though extensively renovated, mill building while the visitor centre shop and cafe are in what was originally a cattle barn.

A small gourmet shop is also on site, and the continuing construction speaks to the imminent arrival of several more boutique shops. (Update: Anthony tells me that a flower shop and gift shop have joined the gourmet shop since my visit - all three are owned separately from the distillery).

The distillery tries to be environmentally friendly recycling the fast majority of refuse: the draff going to feed the farm's cattle, while the waste from the stills is spread on the fields as fertilizer.

The first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years, the distillery officially opened on June 3rd during the 2005 Islay Whisky Festival, however it wasn't until December 14th 2005 that Kilchoman filled their first seven casks - and they did not distill again until the end of March 2006.

Made in America

A couple of Fridays ago, I received an email from Eric Felten (who writes the How's Your Drink? column for the Wall Street Journal). Eric was in the midst of writing a story* and wanted to ask my opinion on the small number of American single malt whiskies currently on - or waiting to hit - the market.

Kevin, I'm working up a column on American single malts, and thought I'd touch base with you to see what your impression of them is -- if you've tried any of them.

What do you think of the concept -- that is, does it make any sense to make Scotch-style whisky in the US when the Scots seem to be doing it pretty well already?

Is it possible to devise a malt whisky that has an American identity?

An interesting question, to which I answered:

Eric,

I have not tried any of them (aside from Anchor's Old Potrero single malt rye).

In concept - Why not?

The problem is that most Americans don't understand that "Scotch" IS whiskey or that (or how) single malts differ from blends. So will they understand that "Wasmund's" is a single malt -  like Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, but not a "Scotch" and not a Bourbon?

American single malts will have the unenviable task of differentiating themselves from Bourbon; Blends; Scotch; Irish Whiskey; Canadian Whisky; etc.

If the boutique American single malts are charging based on their cost (or aspirational pricing) as opposed to what the market will bear - they will have a really tough time.

For better or worse the whisky with an American identity is Bourbon.

A new chapter for Bowmore

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Today's story was contributed by Ian Buxton.

Just in case you are not familiar with Ian's work, there is a brief bio at the end of the story. Suffice it to say, I'm honored that Ian reads The Scotch Blog, and I'm bowled over that he thinks enough of it to actually write a story for exclusively for us.

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There were bright lights, fireworks and lasers on Islay recently as Morrison Bowmore unveiled some radical new changes to their flagship single malt range and revamped visitor facilities.

As part of a "strategic review" of their business the Japanese-owned distiller has decided that new packaging and new advertising is in order for Bowmore, the world's tenth best-selling single malt. Morrison Bowmore sells 132,000 cases of Bowmore worldwide each year but believes there is scope for further growth - but driven by the brand's quality and positioning not aggressive pricing. Key markets are the USA, Asia and tax-free, with a planned £20m investment (approx $39m) scheduled over the next five years.

Glen Moore, the global brand director for Bowmore, said it was "very much a new chapter" for the brand. "This is the most complete review of the Bowmore range in the company's 227-year history and we expect it to put the brand in good shape for the future," he said.

Speyside's Smallest

There are a growing number of Independent Bottlers who have added a single malt distillery to their stable: Signatory has Edradour; Murray McDavid has Bruichladdich; Angus Dundee has Tomintoul and Glencadam; and Ian Macleod has Glengoyne. But Gordon & MacPhail was one of the first.

Gordon & MacPhail was established in 1895 in Elgin, Scotland, as a purveyor of wine, spirits and groceries, blending and bottling whiskies in the best tradition of Scottish grocers.

Within months of opening, the founders James Gordon and Alexander MacPhail were joined by apprentice John Urquhart, who in 1915, would assume the role of senior partner.

With John's takeover, Gordon & MacPhail would begin to focus more and more on the whisky side of the business - and focusing on the bottling of single malt whisky while others concentrated on blends.

It wasn't until 1993 that the company decided to get into the production side. It acquired the Benromach distillery in the pretty town of Forres (west of Elgin) - but it was another five years before production started.

As you may have guessed from the title of this article, Benromach is the smallest distillery in Speyside.

I had a chance to chat with Michael Urquhart, Director of Gordon & MacPhail as he led me through the Benromach line...

Re-org at Inver House

Inver House has announced a major re-org - four of their five distilleries now have new managers.

The moves include:

Pulteney Distillery Manager, Malcolm Waring
Balblair Distillery Manager, John MacDonald
Knockdhu Distillery Manager, Gordon Bruce
Balmenach Distillery Manager, Fred Sinclair

Bobby Anderson stays in place at Speyburn.

In addition, Derek Sinclair takes the helm as Group Distilleries Manager – a promotion from his previous position as DM at Balblair.

John MacDonald, previously worked as the Assistant Distillery Manager of Glenmorangie, is the outsider  and brings 17 years of malt whisky distilling experience with him to the role.

Malcolm Waring, who previously worked at Pulteney is looking forward to returning to Pulteney.

I am delighted to be returning to Pulteney as Distillery Manager.  All the DMs at Inver House are close and we regularly speak to each other - sharing our ideas and experiences. It is an incredibly proud moment for me and a great opportunity for us all.

Martin Leonard, Operations Director of Inver House adds:

It is an exciting time for Inver House. We are growing as a group and are delighted that we have been able to promote a number of our experienced and loyal members of staff in these changes. We have a great mix of talent, experience and enthusiasm within the team and I wish them success in their new roles.