The Scotch Blog

Ballechin Act (repost)

I was wandering the floor at Whisky Live Paris when I saw Sukhinder Singh sitting behind the Edradour booth. I joined him when he thrust a glass into my hands and said those fateful words every whisky lover yearns to hear: "Try this".

While I was tasting, Andrew Symington, the Head guy at Edradour 7 Signatiry came over to chat.

Andrew Symington: How old do you think that is?

Kevin Erskine: <take a taste> Very Peaty - I would say it's a little young. <taste again> I'll say six.

AS: Three years and 5 months

KE: What was it aged in? It's got an interesting sweetness.

AS: First fill Burgundy casks.

KE: Exclusively?

Too many Bruichladdich editions?

Mark Reynier of Bruichladdich took some time to expand on and respond to the issues I raised in the recent story "The Laddie" - specifically the discussion of whether or not there are simply too many Bruichladdichs in the market.

As always, Mark is blunt and to the point.

Read on...

Curious & Authentic

Benriach has an interesting history - built in 1897, the distillery was closed just 6 years later and then  lay dormant for 62 years. In 1965, the distillery was reopened by new owners, Glenlivet Distillers, but closed again in 2002. In 2004 the distillery was purchased by a team which included Billy Walker, formerly of Burn Stewart.

Probably best known for Curiositas and Authenticus their 10 and 21 year old (respectively) heavily peated whiskies - a unique departure from the standard lightly peated Speyside style, BenRiach also offers 12, 16, 20, 25 and 30 year old (lightly peated) versions - as well as the non-aged labeled Heart of Speyside.

I met Billy at Whisky Live Paris where we talked about the past and future of BenRiach as well as some of the things one the horizon.

A visit to the Laddie

Much as it is the obligation of every Muslim to make “the Hajj”, the pilgrimage to Mecca; it is the obligation of the whisky lover to make the pilgrimage to Islay – arguably the origination point of the introduction of whisky to Scotland.

One should plan to visit all eight working distilleries on the island – as the variety of whiskies produced by these eight is as varied as the many whiskies produced across the whole of Scotland.

While most people associate Islay with the strongest and peatiest of all whiskies, this is simply a fallacy, as whiskies of great delicacy are to be found at both Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich.

But it is only at Bruichladdich that one can observe whisky being made much as it was made 125 years ago – and interestingly enough, with much of the same equipment.

The staff of Bruichladdich take great pride in the fact that the whisky is made largely by hand, without a computer controlled gadget to be found.

Luddites? Not at all - the former distillery manager’s house (current Distillery Academy quarters and Bed & Breakfast) is wired for WiFi. Inventory is computerized - one concession to the computer age - though not tracked by bar code – Bruichladdich still stencils each and every cask with contents and year of distillation.

A Sleeping Giant

As you speed along the A95 on your way to Aberlour, Craigellachie and points beyond, you'll drive right by a small family owned distillery in Ballindalloch. But if you ever happen to be on that road headed towards Macallan or Glenfiddich - do what a growing number of people are doing in their whisky shop. Slow down, and check out Glenfarclas.

Originally built in 1836 by Robert Hay, it wasn't until 1865 that the Glenfarclas Distillery came under the ownership of the Grant Family - the distillery remains, to this day, independent and family run.

It all started with John Grant, who on June 8th 1865 purchased Glenfarclas for £511.19. In 1889, John's son George took ownership. In 1890, John and George, George's sons took over. In 1949, George, son of George took over. In 2001, the current chairman John Grant took the reins. And I was at Glenfarclas to meet with George, who is John's son.

Notice a pattern?

Mine, All Mine

On Friday June 22, 2006 Bruichladdich released the following press release

Mined over Matter

The Royal Navy's bomb disposal team have delivered a mine to a west coast distillery.

Some months ago Lieutenant Commander John Law and his elite Northern Diving Group were called out to deal with the small matter of a World War II mine found on a beach close to Bruichladdich distillery on the Isle of   Islay.

Once the mine had been safely detonated, the team was invited by Bruichladdich Distillery Manager Duncan MacGillivray, a member of the Coastguard team in attendance, for a dram to ‘steady the nerves’. 

“After the CIA, the Yellow Submarine – the Bomb Squad turning up at the distillery was all we needed”  recalls Managing Director Mark Reynier, on seeing the Bomb Disposal convoy pull in to the  courtyard.

“When I realised there was no danger of imminent disaster, I asked if we could have our very own mine in the distillery’s courtyard  for fundraising -  and the Northern Diving Group were only too happy to help us out.”

The giant Mk 17 World War II buoyant mine – provided by the mine team at the Defence Munitions Centre in Crombie – stands more than six feet tall including it’s sinker, weighs one tonne and is topped with some rather noticeable orange paint – making it really stand out from the crowd.

It has a collection box attached to the front to raise money for the Royal National Lifeboat Institution – a charity at the heart of the community of Islay, which is home to one of the west coast’s largest and busiest lifeboats.

Lieutenant Commander John  Law, Warrant Officer Steve Strange and Australian Navy exchange diver Brad Eames attended the Bruichladdich Open Day during the 2006 Islay festival to deliver and formally present  the mine.

“It’s actually great to be able to do something like this,” said John. “The RNLI is a most worthwhile cause, with its volunteer men and women risking their lives at sea around our coasts.

“The Northern Diving Group has been delighted to supply this mine which will hopefully raise loads of cash for the charity. We were made to feel incredibly welcome and will, no doubt, pop in next time we’re over on an emergency call out.”

Last year the distillery had a run-in with the Ministry of Defence over a special bottling “Bruichladdich’s Yellow Submarine”, an on-going reminder of the embarrassing incident concerning the loss of a mine-clearing submarine.

Some claim this mine, donated by the M.O.D, may not be disarmed after all…

Interestingly, I was at Bruichladdich when the mine was delivered (the day before Bruichladdich day) - I got to enjoy a celebratory dram with Mark Reynier, Simon Coughlin, Jim McEwan, Andrew Gray and the members of the bomb squad. I was also the first person to use the mine to make a donation to the RNLI. Pictures below.

Expensive? Worth It!

There are many great distillery tours in Scotland (and a few not so great) but if you only have time for one (or if your companion needs to get a crash course in the whisky-making process), then you need only go on one tour; the tour of The Balvenie Distillery.

Though it is likely the most expensive tour (£20) you will ever go on, it's also the most complete - Balvenie is the only distillery (that I'm aware of) with both it's own maltings and working cooperage.

What you DO get to see is worth the fee. It's an exclusive tour - reservations are required; and limited to 8 participants. As such, you are likely - though not guaranteed - to be on the tour with more seasoned folks - and less likely to be dragged down by a bus load of octogenarians asking for a glass of wine at the conclusion.

We had the good fortune to have Deborah Stewart show us around on her last day doing tour duty. Deb was fantastic. It's obvious that she knows her stuff and has not simply memorized the tour guides' script. Plus, she was just plain fun.

The Tour
You start out at the Glenfiddich visitor center (in case you were not aware, Balvenie and Glenfiddich are both owned by William Grant, and lie on adjacent properties) and await the arrival of your guide. You also get to feel superior - while the common-folk are herded into the a theater for the start of the Glenfiddich tour, you suit up in a lovely yellow vest  - showing that you are one of the privileged few.

After a quick walk over to the original Balvenie distillery manager's office, you are seated in a comfortable sitting room and offered your choice of coffee or tea - as you chat with the tour guide, and hear about your fellow tourees. (Ours were members of a whisky club in Dundee and included their local MP*.) Here, you can relax and compose yourself before setting off on the tour. The distillery manager's house was recently refurbished and includes beautiful custom wood furniture - the rooms have the feel of a well-appointed, small, yet cozy hunting lodge (minus the animal heads).

After a bit you head off to start the tour.

You begin the tour in the working malting house, where you can see the grain stores, steeping tanks (in our case filled with steeping barley), and the malting floor.

But it doesn't stop there. We were taken into the kiln house and then then right up into the smoking room - where, fortuitously, a batch of malting barley was in the midst of being dried.

That's right. Our group got to stand on top of a foot of drying barley as the smoke swirled around us. That's a unique treat.

Then we were off to the mill, mash and still rooms. (I'll skip descriptions of these rooms, since they are standard parts of any tour). I will mention that Ginger,the distillery cat, decided to join us in the Still room. Sadly, Ginger is 18 years old, and, following the recent trend at distilleries, will be the last Balvenie distillery mouser.

We toured one of the more traditional dunnage warehouses, where I was treated to nosing a cask from the year of my birth. Let's just say that it's a year which Scottish football fans do not hold in high regard.

We then headed down to the cooperage to see the coopers do their thing - I'm not aware of any other distilleries which have a full working cooperage on-site.

After that, it was back to the distillery manager's house for a tutored tasting which included Balvenie Founder's (10), Double Wood (12), Single Barrel (15), PortWood (21), and the 30. To top it all off as a parting gift you receive a 30 ml bottle of the 30.

All in all the tour was almost 3 hours. Not a bit of it boring.

Balvenie also shares an on-site bottling facility with sister distillery Glenfiddich, though unfortunately you won't get to see that. The only minor gripe I have is that Balvenie merchandise is relegated to a corner of the existing Glenfiddich shop. Fortunately, that is due to be rectified with a planned new shop on the Balvenie Distillery grounds.

Again, at £20, you may think it is expensive. But I'd like to compare it to a free, but wholly disappointing tour experience - the Macallan.

• It was the one tour that I was not allowed to take any pictures in any of the buildings.
• We didn't visit the Mill house as we were told it is a dangerous place (I've been in many Mill rooms with no more danger than the occassional sneeze.)
• The guide, while well-versed in the tour script, had obviously never been to another distillery or exposed to any way of making whisky other than Macallan's. She told us that people always fall into the traditional wooden washbacks and drown, so this was the reason Macallan used enclosed stainless steel.
• We did not get to visit any warehouses as we were told that visitors are not allowed in them (we were told that this is a UK law - un-true).
• The guide had no knowledge of the Macallan product line. I asked her about the Macallan 17 year old Fine Oak - she told me it did not exist - there was only an 18. (the 18 year old is available in the UK and the 17 is available in the US - if you are a tour guide and take many nationalities on tours, shouldn't you know the product line?)
• At the end, we were herded back to the shop. She disappeared for a moment into a back room, came back and handed us drams in the middle of the visitor center shop. And then she walked away.
• The entire tour was on the order of 35 minutes - most of it spent walking.

I did learn that the Macallan stills appear on the back of the Bank of Scotland 10 Pound note.

Of course no one could complain about a free dram of the delicious Macallan 12, but The Macallan, for many, is the Mecca of malt distilleries - so perhaps I expected something more.

On the up side, I did pick up a limited edition 14 year old Easter Elchies - a cask strength bottling; one of only 570; and according to the barman at the Highlander Inn a "real cracker".

The Balvenie Tour
The Balvenie Distillery
Balvenie Maltings
Dufftown, Scotland
AB55 4BB
Telephone: +44 (0) 1340 820 373
Tours:
   Until Early December
   Monday - Thursday 10am & 2pm
   Friday - 10am only
   Weekends – Closed
Cost: £20

The Macallan Tour
The Macallan Distillers Ltd.,
Easter Elchies, Craigellachie,
Scotland, AB38 9RX
Telephone: +44 (0) 1340 872 280
Tours:
   Easter - October
      Monday - Saturday 9.30am till 5pm
   November - Easter
      Monday - Friday 9.30am till 5pm
      (Last guided tour 3.30pm)
Cost: Free
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*That's Member of Parliament to the non-UK people out there.

Spring Potpourri

Bruichladdich Distillery Academy Dates
I've selected Monday September 18th - 21st 2006 for the dates I'll be attending. The Islay Jazz Festival is taking place the weekend before (September 15-17).

The cost for staying at the Academy house over the weekend is just an additional £35 per person per night and includes breakfast, but you'll have to find your own evening meal.

For more information:
Bruichladdich Academy Site
Book your spot
Going to the Academy... (The Scotch Blog story)
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Jim Murray's Whisky Bible
Jim Murray's 2006 Whisky Bible is finally getting easier to find in the US. Except for in my house. After a search for my copy turned up nothing, it turned out that Elsa had claimed it for herself. (I swear this was NOT a posed picture).

For your own copy, purchase through DoceonPress.
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The Science & Technologies of Whiskies
Speaking of books on the subject of whisky, Dr. John Piggott (University of Strathclyde) let me know that The Science & Technologies of Whiskies is available once again through Amazon.co.uk after being out-of-print for some time. £53.69

World-wide contributors describe the whisky process in principal industrial practices where they were sufficiently widespread to be of general rather than purely national interest in order to provide an overview of the whisky industry around the world. The chapters cover the science and technology of whiskies from materials to the finished bottle ready for delivery to the consumer. Other secions deal with the cereals in common use, the process of malting and the operations for transforming the malted or unmalted cereal grains into a fermentable extract. Fermentation, distillation, techniques of process control in the distillery, maturation, practices of blending and bottling and it is here, in the blending stage that the differences between whisky processes around the world become most apparent. The final two chapters deal with issues of economic importance to the industry - energy management and by-product treatment and disposal.

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Tormore & The French Flag
I noticed that Tormore was proudly flying the Scottish national flag, along with a Pernod-Ricard logo flag. However, I was a little surprised to also see a French flag. I don't have a problem with this, but it seemed a little strange to me.  Apart from considerations for the "Auld Alliance" does corporate nationalism really have a place in Scotch whisky?

I also wondered what the staff tells curious tourists.

I asked Neil Macdonald, the brand Director for Single Malts for Chivas Bros:

The flags are at all Pernod Ricard sites.  Pernod Ricard is a long term supporter of Scotch whisky since 1974 and France is the world's biggest whisky market. Pernod Ricard has significantly grown its stake in Scotch both organically by dramatically increasing sales of brands like Aberlour, Clan Campbell, Chivas Regal and by acquisition and subsequent investment. Ultimately we fly the flags because we are proud of our French Parent Company and are delighted to tell visitors about it!

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Whisky101

A few months back I set up a new forum called Whisky101 for people to discuss whisky in a friendly open format.

Unfortunately the free software and hosting I was utilizing wasn't the best, and as a result the forum was unreliable.

Since I still own the Whisky101 URL, I decided to give it another shot. The forum is still available, but now Whisky101.com will take you to a list of excellent resources to "Learn More" about whisky - there's also a link to the forum - in case people are interested in getting it up and running again.

Right now the links are to Tony Dirksn's Radio Whisky and Mark Gillespie's WhiskyCast. recommendations for new links are welcome...

Whisky101

Going to the Academy. Wanna Come?

I've hiked to Machu Picchu, been scuba diving in the Andaman Sea, went to Burning Man, and jumped out of a plane. I've also participated in a water-gun fight during Songkran in the streets of Bangkok until 4 in the morning, and saw some very interesting things in Patpong.

I've spent a week solo back-packing in Yosemite Park during the winter and taken people on sea kayak tours of the Monterey Bay. I've gotten drunk on Ng Ka Py in Hong Kong, and gotten even drunker with Pink Floyd's roadies. I've even had the good fortune to have a beer with Michael Jackson (the writer, not the singer). I haven't lived what one would call a "quiet life", but I still have some things left on my "to do" list.

One of those outstanding things? What every whisky lover wants - to work in a distillery! And this year, I expect to cross that one off my list as well, thanks to my friends at Bruichladdich.

Now, I know that many of the readers out there can describe, in excruciating detail, the traditional method for making single malt Scotch - but how many of you have actually done it?

That's what I thought.

At Bruichladdich, they are still making it the way it was made when the distillery originally opened - without computer-controlled equipment. From the site:

Bruichladdich provides the rare opportunity to experience ‘hands-on’ the art of distilling - the Victorian way.

Stay for 4 nights in the Distillery Manager’s house, limited to a maximum of 6 guests, you will work alongside our craftsmen on a one-to-one basis as they go about their craft of milling, mashing, distilling, tasting and bottling our whisky.

Bruichladdich was built in 1881 as a state-of-the-art distillery; the testament to the simplicity of the layout and the quality of equipment is that nothing has changed ever since. Today, while essentially considered a museum in comparison to others, the original production equipment is still in use, with not a computer or microchip in sight.

Here is the opportunity to make whisky the traditional way, to live Islay’s culture, see the heritage, and experience the magic. We do not claim any teaching qualifications, nor do we rely on classroom study, or facile industry indoctrination. Instead we offer the Islay way of down-to-earth, independent, friendly knowledge sharing. We tell it the way it really is.

Of course corporate marketing/propaganda events already exist. But a genuine, independent, Whisky Experience?  Nowhere else will you get this.

The Academy is limited to six guests, and each part of the process is experienced on a one-to-one basis (it is not a group thing) for maximum effect. You WILL be making whisky - but what exactly will you be doing?

Monday: Arrival day.

A welcome to Bruichladdich meeting at 6:30 PM including a tour of distillery, health & safety briefing, and outfitting.

The next three days activities are rotated so each guest gets a chance to fully participate: so you may not experience the following activities in the following order:

Malting, Milling & Mashing Day

The day starts at 8:00 AM and includes working in the Mill and Mash houses

Fermentation & Distilling Day

Starts at 8:00 AM and includes the Still Room and The Tun Room

Warehousing and Bottling Day

This day's activities include visits to the Filling Store, The Warehouses, The Cooperage and Bottling Hall.

Thursday evening

Includes an exam, followed by an  after dinner award ceremony.

Friday

Eat a hearty breakfast and bid a fond adieu to Islay. Well, you don't have to leave Islay, but the Academy is over.

I talked to Mark Reynier about the program:

Are guests welcome?

Girlfriends and partners are welcome (but they do not attend the course – just meals – and must occupy themselves during the day). Evening and overnight distillation can also be experienced for that extra magical moment.

What types of people take the course?

Our guests come from a wide background and have included brain surgeons, undertakers, bar staff, businessmen, housewives, professors, unemployed, and the unemployable. 

Will I get to experience Islay?

You'll be pretty busy learning the whisky process during the course. That's why we recommend that you extend your trip - acclimatising to Islay and Islay time before the Academy course.

What else should I know?

The term "Academy" may give the impression of being quite high falut’in – but it is very, very down to earth in reality.

One if not all of the directors and management of the company will be available to enlighten guests with information, stories, tastings etc.

Start packing your bags, because I'll bet that like me, you are sold.

The first thing you need to do is read about the Academy on the Bruichladdich web site. The Academy costs £795 per person (about $1,385 USD), which isn't cheap, but it is a once in a lifetime experience, and includes:

• Private room for the duration of the Academy
• Three meals a day, dinner and drinks
• Transport to and from the airport
• Transport to scheduled events
• Academy work wear and an Academy T Shirt, notebook, pens, course material
• Academy Valinch and certificate

Transportation to and from the island is not included. Space availability for specific dates can be checked on the web site www.laddieshop.com in the Academy section.  A deposit of £300 (about $520 USD) is payable to secure your place, with the remainder due prior to the start of the course.

In the off chance the web site doesn't answer all of your questions, feel free to contact Ella Edgar who administers the Academy - she'll be able answer any and all questions.

I haven't made my plans yet, though I'm leaning towards the Fall - I'd like to invite five readers to take the Academy with me. If you are interested, please contact me - It would be great to meet some of you!

Mackmyra Preludium/Sveriges whiskydestilleri

You may have heard of Mackmyra, the Swedish distiller of single malt whisky. They just released Preludium:01 the first Swedish Single Malt Whisky available for sale in a bottle:

The first Swedish Malt Whisky ever. A limited edition from our very first years of distilling. Preludium:01 is a blend of the premier casks of whisky made in our small-scale distillery in 1999, and the first ones from our present distillery, opened in 2002. In short words: the very first drops of Swedish malt.

There are a few differences in the way Mackmyra produces and matures their whisky, which we'll see when we talk to Eskil Tunberg - this is a thoroughly Scandinavian endeavor.

For maturation, Mackmyra uses first fill ex-bourbon casks and ex-sherry butts, but in addition, Mackmyra uses new casks made of Swedish Oak.

The fresh oak is charred to bring out the sweetness locked inside the wood fibres. The result is a rich, dark colour and an oak flavour without any influences from previous contents.

The following interview took place at Whisky Live London (March 2, 2006).

KE - Tell me about Mackmyra.

ET - The company was founded in 1999. The first drops were distilled in December 1999 from a very small hand made still. producing 30 litres. Very, very small.

During the first three years (1999, 200, 2001) what we did was learn how to produce whisky, and also developed the different recipes. We wanted to experiment. From Autumn 2002 our full scale distillery was operational and since then we have been in full production.

KE - Were you making any spirits before this?

ET - No, Mackmyra was founded by eight friends, four couples that went to a ski resort in Sweden. They all brought a bottle of malt whisky with them - there were eight people, eight bottles of whisky - and this is what came out.

The first three years was just recipes. Just learning, too. After the first 170 different batches we felt we were ready to take it to the next level and invest in a big distillery.

In late Autumn 2002, we got our new stills 8,000 and 6,000 litres - and since then we have been producing 2 recipes. One unpeated, we just dry the barley with hot air, and one peated version - and don't only use peat to get the smoke, we mix in juniper twigs as well - just to make a different Swedish recipe.

KE - Where are you getting your peat?

ET - Four kilometres away from the distillery - Swedish peat - it's all Swedish ingredients - Swedish water, Swedish barley, Swedish yeast - everything Swedish.
We've made everything ourselves - just to be sure that we do not copy someone else. We wanted to make Swedish whisky - so we've done everything ourselves.

KE - Let's talk about the Preludium...

ET - It's an introduction. This is a mix. We took the first cask we ever made, and the first first-fill sherry cask, the first first-fill bourbon cask, the first Swedish oak cask, and so on and so on. We took the first of everything and mixed it together and to get the volume. We took the first casks from our new distillery as well - so this is a three year old - the first recipe is six year old - so it's a mix of everything.

This is the first in a series of six that we will launch during 2006 and 2007.

KE - And you introduced it today, at the London Whisky Live?

ET - Yes. There were 9,000 bottles made - but the main part will stay in Sweden. There is some available throughout Scandinavia - and also in England, Scotland, France and The Netherlands.

KE - What about the U.S.?

ET - Yes. We are looking to get to the United States. One of the problems is that we have to find an importer first - but we have made some really good contacts here in London. We already have restaurants in New York and other places that are interested.

KE - Do you comprise the Swedish whisky industry at this point?

ET - Yes, we are the only ones. But we would love for the whisky industry in Sweden to grow!

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A few days after Whisky Live, Eskil emailed me with proof positive of the demand for a home-grown Swedish Whisky:

I am also very happy to tell you that we sold the 4000 bottles of our Preludium:01 allocated to the Swedish private market in approximately two hours.

Good Luck, Mackmyra!