Over at Whisky101 (the reader participation wing of The Scotch Blog) Jody Cairns asks:
How about an article behind the usefulness (or lack thereof) of corks?
Do they serve any practical purpose? Are they only a marketing gimmick? I
suspect it's all about perception, but then you'd think why don't the
bottlers of blends adopt using corks, too? Is there a marketing agreement
between single-malts and blend bottlers to permit only single-malts the
use of corks?
I look forward to reading any insight you can bring about the subject.
Ah, the age old question of the cork. Corks have a long history with Scotch - before the screw cap was invented, all bottles were sealed with cork. Plus, there's an undeniable, emotionally satisfying aspect to pulling out a cork - as opposed to screwing off a cap.
But don't whisky producers face some of the same issues faced by wine makers?
What about TCA taint?
If you are not also a wine drinker, you may not be familiar with the concept of "cork taint" which is a very real bacterial issue affecting as much as 2-5% of bottled wines. A bottle of wine that has cork taint is generally referred to as being "corked."
The following explanation of cork taint in wine comes paraphrased from The Wine Steward:
All natural cork contains traces of a bacterial compound known as
Trichloroanisole, or “TCA” for short. When it occurs at a certain level
(literally just a few parts per trillion) it imparts a “taint” to the
wine.
In the early stages of
TCA spoilage, only those especially sensitive to the taint can detect
it. Rather than an aroma or flavor, there is initially only a “dumbing”
of the wine’s original fruit character; it is simply not all that it
should be. With more time, the spoilage develops to something almost
anyone can sense: A “wet newspaper” mustiness that has completely
replaced the wine’s original aromas and flavors. This is not damage you
can actually see; other structural flaws are to blame for leaky or
brittle corks.
We might assume that cork taint also presents a problem for any whisky which uses a cork - but this is apparently not an issue that concerns some in the industry:
In 43 years of distilling, blending, coopering, cask warehousing, countless tastings with IWSC [International Wine & Spirit Competition] and ISC [International Spirits Challenge], and thousands of bottles sold, I have only ever found a handful of bottles that were corked.
Did you know that from the seventeenth century until the mid 1970s all maturing casks had cork bungs - it was only when racked warehouses were introduced that oak bungs were used to seal the casks.
So, if cork was a problem surely, over the course of 300 years, someone would have spotted the problem. Or could it simply be that the distillers and blenders of yester-year were not nearly as clever as today's “experts”?
The reason cork was used was to enable the cask to breath - which helped to stop the build-up of pressure within the cask. Such a build-up could cause leakage where a weak spot may have been in the cask.
Corked whisky is now the latest blog baby . How did we ever make it this far without such experts? Whats next? Plastic bottles ?
Sorry, I could go on but I need a strong dram from a bottle with a cork.
Jim McEwan
There are some dissenting opinions about this:
Whiskies can be corked (have "cork taint"), just like wine. This is a fact. I can show you examples.
John Glaser
Cork cause problems. TCA and dissolved cork are a reality if the liquid lies against the cork for any length of time.
We have 100 year old bottles of Cognac at Berry's but they have been standing all that time. No rest for great Spirits.
Ronnie Cox
Perhaps the cork allows the whisky to breathe?
Nope. In case you didn't know, whisky ceases to mature once removed from the cask - unlike wine which continues to mature and evolve (and eventually devolve), helped along by the oxidation effects of air that is allowed in through the cork:
The cork in a bottle of Scotch does not act as it does in wine and permit further breathing. The moment that the spirit is decanted from the cask and filled to glass the breathing and ageing process ceases.
Jimmy Robertson
As Jim McEwan stated above, cork bungs were used in casks at one time, and the purpose was to allow the cask to breathe. At Glenmorangie, they are still using them:
I think cork, as you suggest, does have a perception of quality rather than any actual benefit when used in bottling. - we do however still use it for our cask bungs (although not exclusively anymore as it's very hard to get -so now only when refilling a cask already "soft" bunged ie 2nd fill) - we believe it allows the cask to breath easier and reduces any pressure that may build up on warmer days.
Graham Eunson
Let's talk about Blends
To clarify things - there is no agreement between single malts and blended whiskies concerning corks. Glenfiddich 12 and Grant's use screw caps, while many of the higher end blends (JW Gold, JW Blue, Chivas Royal Salute) use corks.
Blended scotches used corks as well back in the day, but they were
selling faster than single malts and being consumed faster than single
malts - so when the much cheaper twist offs were invented in the early
1900's, they were adopted for blends.
It was thought that a cork provided better
long term protection for a whisky, so the single malts kept them -
since most consumers, even now, parcel it out.
Most bars today will go
through more Johnnie Walker Black Label in a week than most single
malts in a year, so long term storage is not an issue with blends.
Marty Duffy
Economics plays its part
Screw tops are much cheaper to make - a fraction of the cost of corks. And since most blends require highly specific cost targets to meet the price points for different tiers - that equals no corks in the mass market blends.
Security, as well
These are parts of the world where fraudulent use and counterfeiting mean it is preferable to use bottles with a non refillable closure - this helps stop the bottle being refilled with cheaper whisky.
Neil Macdonald
So why not use screw caps on Single Malts - don't they face the same issues?
Corks have traditionally been used on Scotch whiskies and I guess the idea of moving away from them, like with wine, would be considered a down market move.
Mark Reynier
Interesting question and it seems to be a covention that quality whiskies use corks - mainly because they are seen as a strong indicator of quality. Also there is a definite tactile pleasure when you hear the gentle "thwock" of a cork being drawn out of the bottle - something a screwcap just does not emulate.
Neil Macdonald
$30 + for a bottle of malt so most maketers/brands/companies believe that cork is king for this. Personally we use them in JMR bottles 'cause we love the popping sound they make when you open and close the bottle!
Dave Robertson
It's very straightforward in my view. It's all about another of our senses SOUND. Sound is an important part of the ritual. The wondeful pop each time - rather than the one time metallic "crack".
Ronnie Cox
John Glaser is passionate about cork - or actually, the need to move away from cork. Is John trying to cut costs? I doubt it, John is also quite passionate about using the finest woods to age his whisky, so I know cost isn't a factor in his decisions...
There is no doubt: the Scotch whisky industry continues to use cork on super premium whiskies ONLY because of consumer perception. The common consumer perception is that cork is superior closure suitable for better, more expensive products.
Why do we use cork? It's a traditional and historically effective closure for bottles, especially wine bottles that require small amounts of oxidation over many years.
There is no economic and certainly no product quality-driven reason for Scotch whisky bottlers to use cork anymore.
Synthetic corks can work, but have two problems: 1) after repeated opening and closing, the silicon wears off and the corks get stuck; and 2) biodegradability.
The Scotch whisky industry should be moving away from cork, if they care about the quality of their products, just like winemakers around the world are increasingly moving away from cork.
Now, you'll be wondering why we (Compass Box) still use cork. First, I'll say that our long term plan is to move to screw cap (unless a better option comes along). Secondly, I should say I used synthetic cork when I first started the company, but was faced with the two issues above.
So, why still use cork? The economics of being a small company. To move to screw cap, we would have to pay many tens of thousands of pounds to design and create molds for a custom screw cap, given the bottle we use. We simply cannot afford that. So, we will move to a screw cap or better alternative in the future, when we can afford it.
For a big company brand, the switch would be considered cheap and no big deal. And here's the kicker: screw caps (after amortising the cost of design and molds and bottling line change parts...no biggy for a big brand) are CHEAPER than corks! (Assuming you haven't designed a screwcap out of marble or some such thing!).
The problem for big brands, is what I stated at top: consumer perception. They're scared. And so far there is no super premium malt brand willing to take this chance. We will, one day...
Marty Duffy concurs:
A screw top would, I believe, take some of the romance out of it,
which is why they have stayed with it for so long in the first place. But the use of cork may change in
the future. Like wines, they are finding that screw tops may
actually work better than cork - plus cork is getting rare &
expensive.
I had so much good input, I've split this into a two-part story. Stay tuned for next week's installment when we talk to Ian Millar about Glenfiddich's plans for the future, as well as the Sales Manager from Amorim...a provider of corks to the Scotch industry...
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Thanks to Jimmy Robertson (Morrison-Bowmore), Jim McEwan &
Mark Reynier
(Bruichladdich), John Glaser (Compass Box), Marty Duffy (Diageo), Dave
Robertson (JMR), Graham Eunson, (Glenmorangie), Ian Millar (Glenfiddich), Deborah Guimaraens (Amorim) and Neil
Macdonald (Chivas Brothers) for their input.